Buying Advice for an Antique Marquise Diamond Ring​​


People value ownership of antique rings for many reasons; quality of craftsmanship, style, and sentimental value to name a few. When shopping for an antique marquise diamond cut ring, it is important to verify that the bling is real - in order to avoid being duped into buying fake jewelry. The following checklist will help guide you through the process of selecting an antique marquise cut diamond ring like an expert.

What is a Marquise Cut Diamond?


The history of the marquise cut diamond dates back to the 1740s. King Louis XV hired a jeweler in France to design a diamond with a shape that mimicked the lips of his mistress, Jean Antoinette Poisson, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour. Since that time, the diamond has evolved into a shape that can be described as that of an American football. Flaunting 50 to 58 facets, the elliptical-shaped luminous diamond gleams brightly for onlookers. The uniquely long shape of this royal pedigreed diamond gives fingers a desirable slender appearance. An additional perk of a marquise cut diamond ring is when looking at the top, it appears to look larger than a round diamond of the same weight, making it the perfect diamond shape for couples on a budget.

Do Your Diamond Research

Thoroughly investigate the company or seller from which you intend to buy. Read their online reviews. Are there many satisfied customers? Or mostly disappointed ones? Why? Search for other items that they sell. Is your piece the only one of its kind they offer? If there are several of the same marquise diamond ring, it is most likely not a true antique. Antique marquise diamond rings are unique and rare, and as a result, they are not typically sold in bulk.

Do Your Diamond Research

Make Sure the Diamond Is Certified

Diamond certification is a process by which a gemological laboratory reviews a diamond and provides documentation attesting to its quality and authenticity. The certificate validates the quality and aids a non-diamond expert with their buying decision. This might actually be a challenge with antique rings, as most rings we’d consider antique predate certification as we know it today, but many can still be examined by a gemologist.

Make Sure the Diamond Is Certified

Know the Anatomy of a Marquise Cut Diamond

Be very familiar with the anatomy or shape of the marquise cut diamond. Being knowledgeable about the key features of the diamond will help you to explain the ones you prefer the most.
The body of the marquise diamond consists of:

  • Belly: The principal location where the sides arch out the most. The belly is where the marquise diamond's width is measured.
  • Point: The location where the arched sides connect on each end.
  • Wing: The arched area located in between the belly and the point.
  • Girdle: The location where the top of the diamond (crown) and the bottom facets (pavilion) intersect, defining the perimeter.
  • Keel line: The edge of a fancy cut diamond where the pavilion meets. The keel line is centered and passes through the culet facet.


Do you want a stone with a fat belly or long wings? By knowing these terms, you can describe the perfect stone for you.

Buying Guidelines for Antique Marquise Cut Diamond Rings

When purchasing an antique marquise cut diamond ring, there are specific characteristics and features that should be assessed. Go through these one by one and make sure you get information and answers to your satisfaction.

Buying Guidelines

Due to its antique appearance and slender frame buyers of this ring typically prefer a slightly warmer color, like an I or J. These lower colors are common in antique pieces, and shouldn’t alarm a first time buyer.

The clarity grade should be SI1 or higher on the GIA clarity scale. If there is no report, just examine the stone to see if there are visible inclusions.

The sharp edges of the diamond can be damaged easily. Look for rings with a V-tip prong setting or other metal setting protecting the points of the diamond to avoid this.

In an effort to increase durability, some diamond cutters use French tips, a faceting style that conserves the points of the diamond. This means there will be several smaller facets on the points instead of the typical, single facet.

The smallest flaw can affect the overall appearance of the ring, as a result it is imperative that two pointed ends are symmetrical.

When the girdle is medium to moderately thick it reduces the risk of damage.

Length-to-width ratio is the measurement of length (one tip to the other) and width (across the belly). The ratio for the marquise diamond ranges from 1.6:1 to 2.2:1. The ratio you prefer is ultimately a personal preference.

Test a marquise cut diamond for the Bow tie effect. Look down at the center of the diamond if there is a very slender dark spot, that is an illusion of the light known as the Bow tie effect. The more pronounced, the less the stone sparkles.

Ideal Marquise Cut Diamond Settings

Due to the elegant shape of the stone, marquise diamonds compliment a variety of settings.

Classic Marquise Solitaire

The marquise cut diamond gleams brightly in the timeless classic solitaire engagement ring in white gold. The simple 6 prong setting allows the most light to enter the diamond enabling the stone to shine as brightly as it can. Think of an antique Tiffany solitaire with a stunning marquise lifted into the light.

Classic Marquise Solitaire

Cinderella Ribbon Engagement Ring

For a more vivacious woman, think old world Chanel, with their iconic bow tie rings. The Cinderella ribbon solitaire marquise cut diamond ring features a chic and luxurious rippled double ribbon design reminiscent of the glass slipper wearing fairy tale princess.

Cinderella Ribbon Engagement Ring

Marquise Bezel Ring

For a clean, sleek, and modern variation of the classic solitaire, feast your eyes on the stunning yellow gold bezel solitaire engagement ring; it skips the prongs altogether. Instead, the diamond sits nestled in the center of the ring embraced by a band of metal, securing the ring. This type of ring will be more common in antiques.

Marquise Bezel Ring

U-Prong Diamond Engagement Ring

Shine a little brighter with a marquise diamond surrounded by ten round diamonds tastefully displayed in a u-prong setting on the ring band. While a true antique ring might not have the exact U-prong look, the shared prong style is definitely not brand new.

U-Prong Diamond Engagement Ring

Marquise Diamond Halo

For even more bling, consider a halo diamond ring setting, where pavè diamonds opulently surround the marquise diamond. The halo adds a nice amount of bling without significantly jacking up the price, like a diamond upgrade would. Halo designs have been en vogue for over a century, so there are bound to be options in vintage jewelry stores.

Marquise Diamond Halo

Shopping for an antique cut marquise diamond ring can be a smooth process if you know what you are doing. Use these tips to help you navigate through the buying process successfully.

  1. Home
  2. Engagement Rings
  3. Articles
  4. Buying Advice for an Antique Marquise Diamond Ring​​