Diamond Shape

When selecting a diamond, shape is one of the most important factors to consider. The contours and outlines of a diamond have a significant impact on its appearance. Round diamonds have long been the most popular, although many modern consumers prefer alternative shapes, including emerald, princess, radiant, and asscher, among others.

At Brilliance, we offer the ten most popular shapes in our certified diamond search. Below, learn more about each diamond shape, its unique traits, aesthetic properties, and markings of quality.

As always, feel free to contact one of our diamond and jewelry experts for individualized assistance with choosing the perfect diamond.

Round

The most commonly chosen variation, round-cut diamonds have been more researched by certified gemologists than any other shape. Renowned for its unrivaled fire and brilliance, this cut boasts excellent light refraction properties, causing it to appear brighter than other shapes. When clarity and color are equal, a round diamond will be more valuable than alternative shapes.

During cutting and processing, a round-cut diamond sacrifices more of its original carat weight than any other shape. A round diamond's fire and brilliance can be enhanced through the use of scientific calculations performed by expert diamond cutters. The better the cut, symmetry, and polish, the more brilliant a round diamond will appear.

With other diamond shapes, settling for lower grades of color and clarity usually means sacrificing some of the beauty of the stone. Because a round-cut diamond emits higher levels of brilliance and fire, it will offer much of the same aesthetic appeal even if it has a lower color, clarity, or cut.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting a round shaped diamond, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.02.

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Princess

A square stone with 90-degree corners, the princess cut originated in the United States in 1980. This shape is one of the most efficiently produced types of diamonds, with nearly 60% of the original rough preserved during the cutting process. The most desirable princess diamonds are perfectly square in shape, with the more rectangular variations decreasing in value.

One of the advantageous traits of a princess diamond is that any existing inclusions are less visible due to the unique cutting and polishing technique that is used. Models of versatility, princess-cut diamonds are equally at home in traditional and contemporary engagement rings.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting a square shaped princess, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05. For those who prefer a rectangular shaped princess, choose a length-to-width ratio of 1.1 or greater.

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Asscher

Introduced in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, the renowned diamond cutter from which it got its name, this diamond shape utilizes many of the same cutting techniques of the square emerald cut. What sets the Asscher apart are its uniquely angled and cropped corners, considered a revolutionary concept in diamond cutting when it was first conceived by the owners of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company.

Many diamond experts compare the facets of a properly cut Asscher to a hallway lined with reflective mirrors, radiating a great deal of brilliance. The shape is preferred by avant-garde jewelry connoisseurs for its art deco appeal. Although new cutting techniques are always emerging to optimize the sparkle and fire of the Asscher, the same basic characteristics have endured for more than a century.

Since the cutting style of an Asscher diamond makes imperfections more visible, it's recommended to choose a clarity grade of SI1 or higher.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting an Asscher shaped diamond, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05.

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Radiant

Relatively new to the jewelry industry, radiant diamonds were introduced a little more than 20 years ago. This unique shape is a stunning hybrid of a traditional round-cut and an elegant emerald-cut, resulting in a square, near-square, or rectangular orientation.

With an intricate 70-facet cut, radiant diamonds exude tremendous brilliance. Those who appreciate the fire of round diamonds and the sophistication of emerald-cut or Asscher diamonds will find the radiant cut to be highly desirable.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting a square shaped radiant, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05. For those who prefer a rectangular shaped radiant, choose a length-to-width ratio of 1.15 or greater.

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Cushion

First introduced into the jewelry market in 1830, the long-standing cushion diamond is rooted in mining history. Cut into a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and sides, it's considered by many to be a softer version of the emerald cut. Possessing a character-rich antique look, the cushion-cut diamond is a favorite of those who prefer vintage-style rings and jewelry.

Brilliant- or step-cut faceting infuses the cushion diamond with admirable brilliance.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting a square shaped cushion, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05. For those who prefer a rectangular shaped cushion, choose a length-to-width ratio of 1.15 or greater.

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Emerald

Emerald-cut diamonds are usually shorter in length than a rectangle, falling somewhere in the range between a square and a rectangle shape. Distinguished by beveled corners and step facets, this type of diamond is more transparent than other shapes, resulting in the need for higher standards of clarity. If an emerald-cut diamond is marked by an inclusion, it will be much more likely to be detected with the naked eye. For this reason, we recommend selecting a clarity level of SI1 or higher when choosing an emerald diamond.

Emerald-cut diamonds are a popular choice among budget-conscious jewelry consumers seeking an economical alternative to pricier round or princess cuts. The more facets created by the diamond cutter, the higher its value will be.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting an emerald shaped diamond, look for a length-to-with ratio between 1.25 and 1.5.

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Marquise

There's no denying the timeless elegance of a marquis-cut diamond. Reputed to have been specially made for King Louis XIV of France, who wanted a diamond that simulated the smile of Marquise de Pompadour, this elongated stone has gracefully pointed ends for a dramatic appeal. Due to their extended length, marquise diamonds have more size per carat weight than other shapes and boast a brilliant 58 facets. This cut's flattering effect creates the illusion of long, slender fingers.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting a marquise shaped diamond, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1.7 and 2.3.

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Oval

Timeless and classic, an oval-cut diamond is flattering to most any wearer, creating the illusion of a longer, more slender finger. Cut with the same number of facets as a round diamond, an oval shape emits nearly the same level of brilliance and fire, and its elongated shape makes it appear larger in carat weight than a round.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting an oval shaped diamond, look for a length-to-with ratio between 1.3 and 1.65.

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Pear

Exuding elegance, pear-shaped diamonds (also referred to as a 'drop cut' or 'teardrop' diamonds) are cut to resemble a drop of water with a single point and rounded end, resulting in a cross between a round and marquise cut. There is some variation among pear-cut diamonds, with some appearing wider and others exhibiting a longer, narrower shape. Pear diamonds are noted for their slenderizing effect, creating the illusion of longer, more tapered fingers. They are also renowned for their high levels of brilliance, boasting 58 radiant facets.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting a pear shaped diamond, look for a length-to-with ratio between 1.4 and 1.75.

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Heart

Living up to its name, the heart-cut diamond has become synonymous with love and affection, making it an excellent choice for an anniversary or engagement ring. This unique shape is similar to a pear-cut diamond, differentiated by two rounded edges and a cleft at the top. One of the most demanding diamond cuts to create, a heart-shaped stone requires great skill and dexterity on the part of the diamond cutter.

Most high-quality heart-shaped diamonds are cut with 58 facets, although there are some variants depending on the cutting technique used.

Every diamond shape has a length-to-width ratio, which determines how a diamond will appear when viewed from above. When selecting a heart shaped diamond, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.1.